Batanes
Intro by Val Kirk
Daily Diary by Rebecca de Villa
Photos by Jill Gale de Villa, Brian de Villa, 
Val & Peter Kirk, Pam & Peter Shaw, Pandy Singian, & Rebecca

“If there’s one place you must visit in the Philippines,” she said, “it’s the Batanes Islands.” We were in a typical Manila mall, having recently arrived in the country and “she” was your typical friendly Filipina fellow-shopper, anxious to find out who we were and to make us welcome. We’d actually never heard of the Batanes Islands at that point, but the name remained in the backs of our minds. On learning that scheduled flights to the islands had resumed, we booked a long weekend there with a few friends—a decision we did not regret!

The Batanes are, for not much longer I’m sure, in a magnificent time-warp. No McDonalds or Jollibees, no air-conditioned shopping malls, no security guards, no Starbucks, no traffic fumes, no EDSA, no colorum buses, no slums, no “deposit firearms” signs, no beggars. I could go on. What they have got though—and in  spades—are lush green hills, crystal clear seas, quiet roads, stunning scenery, quaint villages, magnificent walks, well tended and very productive fields and an outstanding community spirit. They also have smiling, gentle people with children who are so pleased to see visitors that they take your hand and in true Filipino fashion, raise it to their foreheads. All this plus lots and lots of wonderful freshly caught seafood—flying fish, dorado, lobster, coconut crabs and much, much more.   

Our group of 12 consisted of one elderly gentleman in a wheelchair; some intrepid hikers who scaled every hill in sight; others who couldn’t wait to sample the local food each evening and therefore ensured we had a good variety of eating places and the rest who just loved exploring and learning as much about the history, the region and the people as possible. We used local jeepneys, tricycles or pick-up trucks for transport and on one occasion hired several motorbikes for the brave among us. We visited the smaller island of Sabtang by boat—a treat not to be missed—but unfortunately just didn’t have time to go to the third inhabited island of Itbayat.   

OK, OK, the region is actually unsophisticated and the weather can be, we’re told, unpredictable. But the simplicity is so appealing. It’s very much a ‘no rush’ place, to be savoured and enjoyed in first, not top, gear. The (only) resort accommodation was basic but very clean, the staff were very helpful and the location was superb. While not wishing to deny the Ivatans their progress, and with it the Internet cafes, Starbucks, et al, we were just grateful to have been able to experience their hospitality and way of life as it is now. By writing this, we’re obviously helping to encourage the very tourism that [may] increase their wealth and with it their development, but as long as it’s handled carefully, that [could] be for the good. [Unfortunately, as some studies have shown, the contrary may also occur.]

Day 1