Batanes
Day
2
crossing to be rough,
and noting that our guide had his own life vest, we were relieved to
have had an uneventful trip both ways. The crossing can be rough so it
is advisable not to go if the seas appear rough and/or if it is raining.We landed in San Vicente Ferrer, along with some PAL mountaineers. As our group waited in, and on, the jeepeny to start our island tour one of the PAL members entertained us with a dance-challenge as local students copied his moves. First stop was Savidug, we strolled through town, and of coarse, took pictures.
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Sabtang
houses are slightly different from those on Batan island, as less thatched
roofing is used. In Batan, the roof extends over all 4 walls of the house,
in Sabtang the roof extends only over two
walls. (Click on photo to compare.) Jack explained the reason behind this is economic—the people in
Batan are (obviously) more affluent; on Sabtang, the smaller roofs are less
costly to replace when worn—which if maintained properly can last 25-30
years. |
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In
Savidug we poked into “the smallest school” in the province, which has
only three students, and a teacher! Very uncommon for most of the country.
No wonder people in the Batanes seem better educated, and had a 
better
command of English, than in other places.
On the way to the next town we saw an idjang. Prior to Spanish times, the people repaired to these forts and threw boulders down on invaders.
On
to Chavayan, where we once again disembarked from the
jeepney, and walked
through town; here we watched a woman weave the traditional headdress. And
of coarse took more pictures. Then the group separated; most went on a hike
over the hills to Sumnanga, while Tong and
Linda Mañalac and I took the
easier way—on the jeepney, back through San Vicente, where we picked up
lunch and the cook, then continued around the island to Sumnanga.
Maryse
(aka superwoman) as expected was first to arrive; followed by Brian; then
Jill, Val and Pam; next the two
Peters; and last were Jack and Pandy. While
waiting some of us meandered over to “little Hong Kong” while Tong
negotiated for the “largest handicraft” you can bring back from Batanes
(Ivatan houses not included)—he closed the deal on a fishing boat to be
handmade and shipped to Manila (or Batangas, where the Mañalacs have a
vacation house). Once complete (group and business deals) we boarded the
jeep and 
headed back to San Vicente. Lunch was on a white-sand beach before
Sabtang’s main town. We were treated to pretty views, fresh juice straight
out of a coconut, flying fish (this time in a delicious stew), and our first
taste of coconut crab—sweet and juicy—we left wanting more (which was
more than satisfied by the time our Batanes adventure ended).
The
scenery all along the coastal road of Sabtang is even more breathtaking than
Batan island’s. Not to mention heart-stopping: much of the route’s
fabulous scenery included looking down from the narrow, curving, and
sometimes very steep road, at the sheer limestone cliffs that plummet into
azure waters below. Though we had a very good driver, the handbrake on the
vehicle we used was not working, the brakes were weak, the front
passenger’s door had to be held shut, and some of us were riding on the
roof.
Back
in Ivana, we stopped in at the Honesty Coffee Shop,
right by the pier. Here, you take what you want and leave your payment in a
box. Prices are written on the items and/or on a sheet of paper found at the
counter. If you need change, well, you have to come back when the owner is
around. Try running something like that in Manila (or most other places) and
you will be out of business in no time at all.
Sunset
dinner
that night was at the Batanes Resort, their staff were pleased to announce they had
fresh lobster available (we had inquired about it the day before); the feast
was enjoyed by all.
