A Day Around Laguna de Bay

Pronounced Laguna de Ba-i, translates to the Lake of Bay.

Bay is a town, by the lake, and was once the capital of Rizal.

Note that Ba-y is old Tagalog for "old mother"

(in Pangasinan Ba-y means grandmother)

Have a visitor and wondering what to do for a day? Even without any visitors, this is an alternative to the typical mundane malling or couch-potatoing and a fantastic way to see a sprinkling of the beautiful culture that the Philippines has to offer.

This large body of water formed when the land between Makati and Marikina rose, isolating it from Manila Bay. It became a fresh water lake that was fed by streams from the surrounding mountains. Huge crocodiles once infested it. Today, the lake has been taken over by fishponds and ducks. A relatively good road circles the lake and a day trip will take you through quaint towns and scenic spots. You may consider breaking the trip into two with an evening at Lagos del Sol (tel. 523-8448), a pleasant resort at Lake Caliraya.

Head eastward down Ortigas Ave. About 10 km from the Ortigas-EDSA intersection the left road takes you up to Antipolo and the right road takes you to Angono and around the lake. Immediately after the split to Antipolo is a 5-way junction, stick to the main (largest) road. About 4.75 km later you will be in Angono.

Though not part of the trip around the lake I have included information on Antipolo. The area offers nice evening views of the Metropolis from Vieux Chalet, a family run restaurant with Swiss specialties. Or you may opt for a lunch at the Crescent Moon Café-owned and run by the family of Lanel Abueva Fernando, daughter of sculptor Napoleon Abueva (his works include the sun sculpture on the ceiling of the Peninsula lobby). Lanel is a talented potter and her works can be purchased at the restaurant-pottery where you may see the work in progress. Antipolo can be a 20 minute drive (during weekdays from 11-3) or more than a 2 hour drive (during rush hour and on Saturday). Crescent Moon is closed on Mondays.

Antipolo's church houses Nuestra Señora de la Paz y Buen Viaje (Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage, right photo). This image sailed back and forth between Manila and Acapulco 8 times (her last voyage was in 1672) and on several occasions was credited with saving her galleon from destruction. Today, many people intending to travel make a pilgrimage to the image to ask for a safe journey.

In Angono, several artists have home-galleries. At the Blanco Family house (312 Ibañez St.) you may see the impressive works of three generations of the gifted Blanco family.  Also of interest is Nemiranda’s home-gallery-school (10 Dona Elena St). If you are hungry, try an interesting meal at Balaw-Balaw gallery-restaurant of artist Perdigon Vocalan, or lunch on the lake at nearby Lake Island Resort in Binangonan (tel. 651-0990; it is closed during Holy Week). If you are in Manila during the Holy Week, consider a trip to see the festivities in Angono—the whole town gets involved; of special note is the wonderful performance (Salubong) at the crack of dawn on Easter Sunday (which may mean leaving your house 4:30am). Giant bird puppets are maneuvered to open a flower containing a young girl; the flower is lowered and then the girl removes the veil of mourning from Mary as she passes by. Another festive time to visit Angono is during the towns fiesta on 22-23 November, especially on the 23rd as this is when the parade of gigantes (giant papier-mâché puppets crafted by the town's artisans) occurs.

As you continue on the excursion around the lake, just after the road to Balaw-Balaw, notice the really beautiful bonsais, at Angono Bonsai Garden, on the left side of the hwy. About 1.65km later is the road left to the Vicente Manansala Shrine, and about 10km later, after passing through Binagonan, you will be in Morong.

The San Geronimo church (right photo) in  Morong took 3 yrs to construct and was funded completely by town’s people. The present church was completed in 1615 by Chinese craftsmen. Their stylistic influence is evident through out: the porcelain flower designs on the tower, saints with Buddha-like necks, and the dragon heads carved on the support of the choir loft. There also used to be two lions guarding the entrance; these are now kept inside. It was here in this church that the Spaniards captured and executed several Katipuneros-rebels who were fighting for independence. Venture in to see beautifully done 14 Stations of the Cross. 

During Holy week, on Maudy Thursday the town hosts a “cordero procession” mid afternoon. The cordero (lamb) is made of mashed potatoes and kamote (sweet potato), is blessed in the church, and is then brought to the “hermano’s” (chosen host, usually a prominent townsman) home where 12 apostles wait. The apostles then eat the lamb and the townsfolk partake in a feast prepared by the hermano's family. The hermano then presents the head of the lamb to the person chosen to be the next year’s hermano.

Just under 2km from Morong's church is a Y-junction where the National Road continues right and bypasses the towns of Baras and Tanay. Turn right to the two towns. The medieval-style 17^th century Baras church (left photo), completed in 1686, is one of the area's oldest. Though smaller than Morong's, this church has a warm welcoming feeling. Inside note the ceiling beams--these are the original beams (see dark beam, right photo) that were once covered by a "modern ceiling." which was removed, thanks to Fr Patrick Ronan . Also note the altar and lecterns, these are stone artifacts unearthed beneath the church. 

Continuing onwards just under 4km from Baras' church, is Tanay's. The San Ildefonso church (photo below), completed in 1783, houses very impressive retablos and wonderfully done wood relief sculptures of the Stations of the Cross.