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Fortress Church of St James |
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Fortress Church of St James |
We
left the simple and clean Cocobeach Resort,
along the beach in barangay Ilog Malino (app 8km from Bolinao proper),
about mid morning. 10km later we were at the Cape Bolinao Light
House (aka Patar Light House, Piedra Pt Light House). The pretty
101 foot light house was constructed in 1905 and sits on top of a small
hill. Its light can be seen 20 miles out to the South China Sea. It is the second tallest lighthouse in the country (Cape Bojeador in
Illocos Norte being the tallest).
We
continued on, about 2.2km from the Lighthouse, to Patar's White Beach--a
delightful cove of cream sand fringed by brilliant blue water. We sat,
imbibed the scenery, took photos, then headed back to Bolinao town proper.
At the National Museum we were shown around by friendly and knowledgeable Museum Researcher Gina de Vera. She along with three other staff manage the museum and grounds that occupy 1/2 a hectare. Though slightly run down, the museum is worth a visit. It contains some artifacts that have been unearthed in the area (most of the important finds have gone elsewhere), and photos of most of Pangasinan's churches. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, from 8-12 and 1-5.
Next
point of interest was the fortress church of St James, completed in
1609. The façade has three seals: the Papal Seal, St James Seal, and the
Seal of Queen Isabela; and one antique wooden santo (there used to be two).
Note how high the church windows are, in times of attack the townsfolk would
retreat to the church and easily defend themselves from its heights. If you
are here on a Saturday morning, the area next to the church will be filled
with wares and treats from nearby towns. We took home a Bolinao specialty: binongey--malagkit
(sticky rice) mixed with coconut milk, cooked in bamboo then roasted. Yum.
From the church, we crossed the street to Q & E Garden Inn where we met with Romualdo Caasi, son of well known historian Quintin Caasi of Bolinao. The younger Caasi shared with us some of his father's notes, photographs, and maps.
[If anyone can get a hold of the February 1970 issue of Saga, a US magazine that is no longer in circulation but was published by Gambi Publications Inc, please contact the family wccaasi@hotmail.com it contains an article "Philippine Treasure Islands" by Howard F Harper, with contributions from Quintin Caasi.]
We then went to Short Time--no not a motel, a restaurant where service did not take a short time. We had lunch with Gerwin Caracas (from the mayor's office) who gave us more information on Bolinao. After lunch we headed back to Lingayen for the birthday of Rose's mother, Mrs. Sugayan.
Following
the birthday merienda we went to the attractive Ramos House, on
Primicias street in Lingayen. The house where former president Fidel
V Ramos spent most of his younger years contains a collection of
memorabilia. If it is not open, wander next door to the house of Engineer
and Mrs. Rodolfo Vilda, Mrs. Vilda
(shown with Rose, left photo) will help arrange to have the museum
opened.
For our last dinner in Pangasinan (we returned to Manila the next day) we drove to Dagupan (it was 9pm by the time we were ready for dinner and all restaurants in Lingayen were closed) and had a western meal at Les Café du Marc Bistro. Though the name sounds French this place is more Italian leaning and specialties are the pasta and pizza.
A special thanks to Rose who invited me to explore her natal province with her, and our "guides" Mo and Jonathan.
Also "salamat ed
sikayo" to the Sugayan family and the Singson family (Lingayen); Yvette Aguirre (Dagupan); Gerwin
Caracas, Gina de Vera, and Romualdo Caasi (Bolinao); Brgy Captain Serigio
and Mrs. Luz Salanga (Tambobong); Mayor Angelita Jimenez of Dasol; Councilor Alex
Maniago (Infanta); and Teddy Ferrer, and Chris and Marife Barnett (Lucap)
whom all helped make the trip very memorable and enjoyable.