Banaue is world-famous and is a "must."
Its rice terraces are a World Heritage Site--beautiful stairways
to the sky that ascend steep mountainsides, occasionally
punctuated by small homes. Original terracing (probably for
houses) dates back 4-5 millennia, although there is much new.
To do: Need to get out from the town center to appreciate the beauty of the area. Hiking here is exhiliarating--not for those unhappy with heights. Opportunities range from 1/2-day to several weeks on the trail, climbing mountains, through forest (some patches remain, under severe pressure from the burgeoning human population).
From Banaue, 1/2-day opportunities include visits to villages with a few traditional houses (on stilts, with conical grass roofs) left, bronze-smiths, traditional weaving using natural dyes, hiking along terrace walls. In town, visit a small museum; enjoy a cultural presentation.
Trekking can be a 2-3-day experience with clean lodges and a variety of food options, with many English-speaking residents. For the more adventurous, add a mountain (bring camping gear) and/or visit remote villages. For arrangements, e-mail brier@skyinet.net or call (6374)386-4023, ask for Hygie Cayong--an excellent guide, he makes great arrangements (if he's not in ask for Percy [his sister], and arrange a time when you can call back to speak to Hygie).
In Banaue, try Banaue View Inn or Spring Village Inn ($6-22); People's Lodge, Stairway, Halfway ($3-15); native houses available at J&L. Lots of good food in Banaue--try Hidden Valley (on the road in), Las Vegas, Coolwinds, People's, Halfway, and Stairway. Sometimes the local guys do country music over beer and gin in the evenings--they're happy to have you join them, do buy a few rounds. Lots of shops, too. Banaue town isn't pretty, but provides access to much beauty nearby.
When: For green terraces, Apr-Aug; rainy season July-Jan; cool Nov-Feb.
Getting there: Bus (Dangwa or
Autobus) from Manila, about 10 hrs ($6).
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Baling Hai ([036] 288
3646; E-mail: otik@boracay.i-next.net Website: www.boracay.cc), on two private coves, is a gem! Each
charming cottage nestled into the hillside is unique. "Rock
House" is built into a rock that protrudes from the hillside
and "Tree House" is built around a tree. Highlights
include large bathrooms with wonderful views from the "throne,"
yet others can't see you (unless they're on a boat, have powerful
binoculars, and know where to look). The artists-owners designed
the cottages and furniture.
Food is served at either the upstairs dining area, next to where you check in, or down on the beach where a pulley and rope contraption shuttles your meals an drinks from the kitchen above.
Last but not least, another
delight is the friendly owners and staff. Prices: $65-95/single
or double cottage; $25 for the nipa-hut. A 10% discount
is given if you book directly.
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Cebu Plaza Hotel is superbly managed and staffed--from the
doormen and roomstaff through management--and comands a terrific
evening view of the city (request for a city-view room). You will
feel "at home" in rooms furnished with a mix of
European and native styles; facilities include 2 swimming pools,
tennis courts, shooting range, minigolf, sauna, salon, and
business center. Prices: $110-150/single, $140-198/double, $224-237/
"presidents club" room, $377-1000/suite. E-mail:cphres@cebu.weblink.com
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Shangri-La's Mactan Island Resort is
a favorite of many travelers (business and pleasure) seeking
relaxation with first-class ammenities, friendly service,
refreshing landscape and design, and easy access. The rooms are
elegant and have private balconies. "Bayview" rooms
overlook the Bay of Cebu; "oceanview" rooms overlook
the beautiful pool and gardens, and the beach and ocean; and
"terrace" rooms are ideal for private sunbathing. At
the Pool Bar where we feasted on fresh seafood that you grill (or
have grilled) right by your table. Other facilities include a
business center, gym, and an extensive aquasport center that
offers parasailing and a very good scuba center. Room: $224-430/single,
$245-450/double, $390-1126/suite; Shangri-La occasionally offers
special packages and rates (if you are a Philippine resident ask
if there are any local promos), inquire upon booking; see their
web page: www.shangri-la.com.
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Siargao must be one of the country's best kept
secrets! It's "Cloud Nine" (Tuason Point) is renown in
the international surfing community, and this island off
northeast Mindanao has much to offer. Why is Siargao one of
Rebecca's favorite destinations? It's pretty close to paradise: a
beach and nearby islets with fine white sand fringed with palms
on one side and clear azure water on the other; kayak through a
cave with limestone
formations to get to an
amazing lagoon;
mangrove and tropical forests with diverse inhabitants-crocodiles,
tarsiers, various birds; inexpensive fresh seafood and excellent
barbecue chicken (at Mel & Rhat);
and genuinely warm people.
Around General Luna, Siargao are several resorts offering a range of rooms and prices. At the top of the line is Pansukian on the fabulous white sand beach of Malinao [$120-240 per person, aircon rooms, meals (excellent!!! much better than Amanpulo!!!) included. Nicolas Rambeau designed and built this beautiful resort. Because the setting and design--a mélange of Thai, Balinese, and southern Mindanao architecture--impressed staff at Architectural Digest, Pansukian was featured in the December 2000 issue. They now have a mobile phone at the resort: +639272237267 and +639216444145.
Other places to stay are and Kabuntog (+639193632507); at Tuason Point/Cloud 9: Sagana (+639198095769 only open during "peak season" -- April-November; $60-90/person, 3 meals included) and Ocean's 101 (+639198268837; $12-24/room) are recommended.
Pansukian offers island hopping and kayaking package tours and Pete "the pirate" of Pirate's Anchorage Bar and Restaurant organizes tours around Siargao island. Surf lessons are available at the resorts by Tuason Point.
Rainy season in Siargao is Dec-early Feb. The best time to go is pretty much any other time of the year. To watch the annual International Surfing Competition, schedule your trip for September (no set date) and make reservations in advance!
Getting there from Manila: