Little Baguio
Bataan's Little Ecotourism Resort

History. In the mid-60s, Lucy finished college at UST and then took 2 years of French—preparing for the foreign service. Then she met Jean Paul for just a day—and, after 18 months of correspondence she left for France. About 3 decades and 2 children later, Lucy has returned with Jean Paul, and they have built a small get-away in Lucy’s native Bataan.

Little Paradise. Jill and friends had the pleasure of sharing their paradise. Only for those who  love nature, respect the ecology, appreciate French cuisine, like better living in an up-scale sawali and cogon house (with French fittings in the bathroom), like to walk, like to learn more about the many native plants and trees Jean Paul is planting on their 17 hectares.

Getting There. We left Manila early Friday evening, and battled the traffic north to the San Fernando-Bataan exit, then crawled along the Bataan “expressway” to the statues in Dinalupihan. About 7 km further, we turned right onto a rough road of dirt, concrete, tar until we found the sign to Little Baguio Resort. Here we turned into a driveway overflowing with red hibiscus.

The Resort. We were shown to our cottages—sawali-walled, cogon-roofed affairs with four-poster rattan beds—the posts serving to support mosquito nets that weren’t really needed, but were beautifully done. Elegant embroidery hangs above the windows, and the ceiling is netting. The bathroom has all French fittings. Lovely. Our group had booked all 5 of their cottages.

Gourmet Fare. Then—dinner. Tanguingue (Spanish mackerel) with a great sauce and homemade bread—Lucy is an excellent cook.

Mt. Natib. The following morning, we were up before dawn for some breakfast—fried eggs, bacon, and homemade bread with homemade guava jam—wow. The freshly brewed coffee was excellent; it’s home grown. Then we prepared to climb Mt. Natib, the highest peak within Bataan National Park, its summit at 1,385 meters. A pony was packed with picnic lunch, and the Bienvenue’s two children were packed also—one on the pony and the other on her father’s back. We were off.

We wound uphill along a dirt road, past the entrance to the park and several signs telling people not to cut the trees, shoot the birds, etc. along the way. Jean Paul pointed out the flora, including ground orchids, and various others—beautiful purple, red, yellow flowers, and the flame trees were putting on a magnificent show in the valley below. Tin Tin, Jean Paul’s dog, accompanied us all the way.  We passed a rudimentary shelter with an elderly couple and a very big goat.

When we reached the turn-off for the way up the mountain, Tiphaine, the children, the pony turned back. The areas close to the mountain, and the ascent, were full of hungry leeches, which we picked off and killed with salt. From here on, it was all uphill. As we moved upwards, the clouds settled in and we had mostly clouds from the top—with occasional glimpses of the beauty below, but not the hoped-for panorama of Subic, Manila Bay, Pinatubo, Arayat, and beyond.

The clouds gathered and rain started, and we moved down. By the time we were down, the rain had stopped and we were passed by several groups going up, some in sandals, sliding about with big packs. One group was from the UP Mountaineers, another from Digitel. 

When we returned to the two rudimentary houses, the big goat had given birth to 3 kids which were struggling to their feet, the placenta still hanging from their mother. The man noted she would likely deliver one more, and she threatened Tin Tin, who was entirely too curious for her comfort.

We walked on and were joined by an Aeta man who appeared from the bushes. Later we found his wife, sitting on a wall, waiting for him. We walked on together for a while, then eventually they stopped to inspect some rattan, and we went on—to Little Baguio Resort and welcome showers.

More Sustenance. After showers and changes we gathered on the porch of the main building for a wonderful meal of pain de poison (fish bread) and boeuf bourguignon (beef bourguignon)—after many beers—and a couple of bottles of good wine. Then bed. And one of the best sleeps I’ve had in some time—despite the serenade of some roosters.

Guided Exploration—And More Great Food. Next morning, another delicious breakfast of egg and bread and guava jam (also calamansi juice), then off for a walk guided by Jean Paul—up the trail toward the mountain, then we moved onto another trail that took us on a ridge that allowed magnificent views of the resort below, and the ridges and mountains around. 2 hours later, we were back enjoying a tour of Jean Paul’s extensive garden—he has carefully planted numerous specimens of native Philippine plants. Then we embarked on the last lunch—duck, pommes frites (fried potatoes), pain de vegetables (vegetable bread), and last but not least, Charlotte for desert. After 9 hours of walking one day and 2 the next—I had gained weight!

(P1,800/person per day, meals included. For reservations at Little Baguio, call Lucy at 0912-328-7200.)

text © brier projects inc
photos © by jill gale de villajean duquet