Although
renown for its majestic, almost perfectly conical Mayon Volcano, the Bicol region has so much more to
offer. Although
renown for its majestic, almost perfectly conical Mayon Volcano, the Bicol region has so much more to
offer.
When I first set off on a 10-day trip to Bicol's southern provinces of Sorsogon and Albay with a friend, Manolet Montinola, I had originally hoped to cover the four provinces of Bicol (yeah right, my mother thought, in 10 days you’ll be lucky to do two). Our first destination was Sorsogon, the southernmost province on Luzon.
Having left Manila late, we opted for the "new diversion road" that bypasses much of Quezon National Park. Later in the trip we learned from Carmen Jimenez-Ong that the old road that goes through the park is refered to as "eme-eme" by the locals because "it is like driving on the letter m."
We arrived in Sorsogon at 8:43pm and proceeded to Fernandos Hotel. David Duran, whose family owns the hotel, was a gracious host and offered to take us around as much of Sorsogon that we could cover in 2 very full days.
Day 1 was an extended tour around Bulusan Volcano. We started off down the road just before the Caltex station beside the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul for a good view of Sorsogon Bay. Then turned around and headed to Prieto Diaz. Sites around the area include Nagsuroc and Pinanaan Caves, and Toten Beach where you get a good view of Mayon Volcano and Rapu-Rapu Island. Around Rapu-Rapu are a few dive spots. To get to Rapu-Rapu Island, hire a banca from Prieto Diaz town proper.
Our next destination was
Gubat, known for its expansive picturesque fine
cream sand Rizal
Beach that many liken to an
undeveloped Waikiki. If you like chicharon, JunJun's
snackyard, beside Gubat town market, is known for its excellent
chicharon. Centuries-old Barcelona Church
and ruins are in the neighboring town. From Barcelona we headed
to Bulusan
Volcano National Park. The
idyllic Bulusan Lake is 2,000 ft above sea level. A 2.9 km
cemented trail takes you around the lush perimiter of the lake.
If you are intersted in trekking, Mt Bulusan is a 2-day climb (contact
PENRO, Sorsogon, tel. (6356) 211-1461 or 211-1205).
Sorsogon is also known for its many natural spring resorts. Around Bulusan are Paloktok, an inviting spring-fed swimming pool, Masacrot known for its consistency of mineral soda, and Mateo Hot and Cold Springs in San Benon. Other popular springs, Palhi and Bucalbucal, are north of Sorsogon town proper.
En route back to Fernando's we stopped by the recently remodled Irosin church for a nice view of Bulusan, and in Juban, admired nice old houses.
Day two was "all over the place." Our first destination was Matnog--the southernmost town on Luzon. The scenery along the way is marvelous--rice fields and gentle green volcanoes. Before Matnog is Bulan, departure point for ferries to Masbate and Ticao Islands. Also in Bulan is a centuries-old Spanish church. Matnog is the departure point for the ferry to Samar, a sign at the port reads "you are now leaving the island of Luzon." This is one of the cleanest ports I have seen--the water is clear and not murky and boys dive off the pier to retrieve coins that people throw in. Nearby are Tiklin and Calintaan islands. Tiklin has a pristine white sand beach: be careful as currents can get strong (banca rental to Tiklin is P500). There is snorkeling off cream sand Subic Beach on Calintaan, and in the nearby forest is a cave inhabited by bats.
From Matnog we headed
north east to the cream sand beaches of Sta Magdalena. Villa Veronica is a day resort along a narrow beach. take
a refreshing dip in the clear waters or rest under one of the
picnic huts. We then continued to the very pretty Olango Beach in barangay San Rafael. There is good
swimming in the middle (where it is sandy beneath the water) and
snorkeling on the outer fringes (by the reefs). The sea is an
inviting clear aquamarine and tall coconut trees fringe the shore.
We then turned around and headed back to Sorsogon Town.
Bacon was our last destination. Off Tolongapo Beach is one of the best dive spots of Sorsogon. Several simple resorts line the beach. Also near Bacon are the Bato Limestone Caves, where ancient artifacts were excavated in 1956.
Unfortunately our stay in Sorsogon was much too short. Shortly after returning to Fernando's Hotel, we had to head off to Legazpi City, for the next leg of this Southern Bicol adventure. I left Sorsogon feeling that we only scratched a tiny portion of the many sites this province posseses. We did not get to Magallanes--the site of the 1st mass on Luzon. And if you like secluded beaches, Mrs Celia Duran also recommends island hopping from Magallanes to Maramaoan Island and Vejilla Beach on Bagatao Island. Bagatao Island was an important shipyard during the Spanish regime.
Nor did we get to go whale watching. It was "off season" when we went, and do hope to return to admire the whale sharks (locally known as butanding) off Donsol. Those interested should contact David Duran (Fernando's Hotel) for arrangements and details. Go in small groups (to limit the disruption of the natural surroundings) and support efforts to save these gentle giants. Whale shark watching rates where $25/person, minimum of 4 people. This includes a banca and BIO (a Butanding Interaction Officer who is experienced at diving with whale sharks).
Where to Stay in Sorsogon:
Aside from tasty meals at Fernando's Hotel, we had inexpensive and good Chinese food at Acacia Grill, VL Peralta St, Sorsogon Town. In Irosin we had Chinese food at 7J's. And for a snack, do try the unique halo-halo (it has shaved cheese on top) at the stalls behind the market near a school (you can't miss it as most of the town seems to frequent the stands, and benches spill onto the street)
When in Sorsogon, try the local delicacies: binot-ong (rice cake wrapped in banana leaves, topped with sugar or dipped in chocolateh); suman lejia (sticky rice and cassava in cube form, wrapped in banana leaves, sprinkle sugar and coconut on top); sinaput (banana rolled in rice flour fried and sprinkled with a bit of sugar); and in Magallanes, try palakbuaya (shell fish shaped like the palm of your hand, prepared ihaw [grilled] or in gata [stewed in coconut milk]). TOP