Treks 'n Hikes

Camping beside Pinatubo's Crater Lake
(photo copyright by Brier Projects Inc.)

Tips for safe and enjoyable treks and hikes in the Philippines are at the end of this section. Always pack out everything you packed in--including cigarette butts and candy wrappers--and remind your companions to do the same.

You don't hear much about hiking and trekking in the Philippines--but it's great. Near Manila are several volcanoes you can do in a day (assuming you're in OK shape), hiking through tropical rainforests and up to summits with fabulous views. Further a field are treks of 2 to several days. See below for a small sample of possibilities and check out Our Latest Hike in Anilao, and Our Latest Trek up Mt Apo.

Banaue offers 1/2-1 day hikes to treks of several days through its fabulous terraces (World Heritage site!) and, for the hardy, into remaining montane forest, guided by members of the Ifugao ethnic group (good English!).

Unforgettable! Here are steep, rugged, young mountains where the people learned centuries ago to carve terraces using the simplest tools yet a remarkably advanced hydraulics system. (Note: terrace walking is only for those without acrophobia.) Trekking between villages requires no equipment, just basic supplies. Spend time observing village live, talking with the people, enjoying the countryside, waterfalls, rushing streams. For mountain overnights beyond villages, bring full camping gear.

For arrangements, we use Hygie Cayong as trail master. E-mail brier@skyinet.net or call him at (6374)386-4023--if he's not there, ask for his sister Percy and arrange with her a time when you can call back to speak with Hygie. See Favorites for more info about Banaue. Jill has been trekking up to 7 days, and can't wait to go again! Jan-Mar is cool and terraces are just planted, Apr-July increasingly hot and terraces green; July-Aug harvest, rains starting; Sep-Nov rainy; Dec misty.

Pinatubo erupted in 1990 with such a fury that its ashes circled the globe 5 times and changed the weather patterns for years. The ash still coats Pinatubo's sides, up to 100m thick, but is eroding yearly. This ash--called lahar--is cement hard in dry season, becomes viscous and flows when wet. Fly over Pinatubo's lahar canyons in an ultralight. Hike to the interior crater (may be dangerous and only possible Jan-May). Jill has done this 4 times and it's always awesomely beautiful!

To get there, take a 4WD or hire a jeep through Capas, Tarlac to barangay Sta. Juliana. Ask for Popoy--he knows the way (if he's not available, be sure to find a guide who has been to the crater before). This is not a difficult hike--it is very hot, as you progress through a canyon of lahar with sun above and hot springs below! Can be done in 1 day by strongest hikers. Jill always takes 2 days--she's slow.

Taal is about the world's lowest volcano (above sea level) and one of its most active. It's inside a crater lake just 1-2 hrs from Manila. Cross by outrigger canoe and hike up about 15-20 minutes to view one crater (pony rides available). Walk through it to see others, further to swim in the sulfurous lake within volcano island. A great day trip from the metropolis. We start from Gloria de Castro's place in Talisay (0912) 310-5071. Best Dec-Feb--very hot during the summer months.

Tips:
w bring a comfortable pack and 3 liters water/day, plus camera, food, sun block, first-aid supplies;
w wear hiking boots or comfortable shoes, light clothing, hat;
w drink only treated, bottled, or boiled water;
w be aware that emergency rescue and medicine isn't available;
w bring a buddy--but keep group size to 8 or less to avoid being an "intruding army;"
w have a local guide who knows the way and the people--and agree on all fees and costs in advance;
w bring all camping equipment for overnights--guides may not have any, even for their own use;
w stay away from people who are drunk or aggressive;
w treat all people you meet with respect, and they will likely treat you the same way;
w bring and share a positive attitude and love for the land and its inhabitants:
pack out all trash, and do not damage or mark the flora or the rocks—many are painted with graffiti. It seems there are still many uneducated trampers who toss their garbage around, cut into the trees, paint their names on the rocks, and are generally trying to turn what little natural area is left into a replica of a city slum

Our Latest Hike
Hike, Swim, Dive Anilao
 
Easy-Moderate Hike
The Calapan Peninsula is best known for the great diving, snorkeling, swimming off Anilao, plus a few good beaches and lots of good resorts (see the end of this article). So—you already knew this, right?

Did you also know that there's a great hike to the top of the Peninsula? The first time (and perhaps the second and third) go with someone who knows the way—there aren't any trail markers, and there are lots of "wrong" turns.

You can start up the left fork just before Dive Solana's parking lot, and continue up the road, which becomes a trail that hooks up with another road.

Then you keep going quite a way and ultimately head uphill between guava trees—difficult to spot this one. A few weeks ago I was doing this alone, and an old woman along the road expressed her disapproval—said it wasn't safe to go alone, but I went on. Pretty soon I had 3 tails—boys aged 9, 11, and 13.

They decided to come along, and found the trail through the guavas for me. We worked our way up through the guava, then up through cow pasture, where they took some pleasure in upsetting the calves. (Do all young boys consider themselves mighty hunters?)

When we came to the top of the first rise they announced this was the top, and I pointed to a higher top. They said it wasn't safe to go there, and I asked why. "Snakes." What kind? "Cobras." I said I'd been there several times and not seen any. They asked if I was going to go there. "Yes" I replied. Would I come back the same way? "If you want" I replied. So off we went, my turn to lead. The spring along the way seemed dry—which could be a problem as I had only 3 liters of water, now for all 4 of us. Then we worked steeply uphill to the real summit and shared the view and an apple before heading back.

Then the youngest boy (2 were barefoot) stepped on a thorn, so we stopped in a shed to do surgery as the thorn had broken off in his foot. The older boy picked another thorn and extracted the offending article—a budding surgeon. I applied some first aid cream and we were off, downhill, and onto a trail I hadn't done before.

Another—and much shorter—way to the top is up the steep road just before Mariko Resort, barangay Ligaya. At the top of the road you work your way through a few backyards, then find a trail that leads to and through a few more yards then up, up to the summit through pasturelands with cattle, calves, ponies, to wonderful views. (I even met one new brown-and white calf still unafraid of people--he had not yet encountered the mighty hunters!). Again, a guide is really important. 2 weeks ago on this trail I met a lovely woman selling some wonderful sitao (foot-long-beans)—they made a delicious dinner, although to enjoy them I had to carry them up and down the mountain!

If you set out to do this hike, take 3 liters of water/person (on a cloudy day you'll not need it all; on a sunny day, you will), a snack or lunch, hat, and sun block—and have a great day! Reckon 2-3.5 hours each way for the route near Dive Solana, and 1-2.5 hours for the route from near Mariko. these times exclude the hike along the road to the starting point.

Favorite places to stay include
» Arthur's: family-run, family-oriented, friendly staff, and good food; Arthur has done alot of work towards preserving the areas' sanctuaries; $25-50/fan cooled room, $42.50/aircon room; tel. 0919-716-7973, 0919-312-3938, 0912-382-4570 or 0912-328-2865.
» Dive Solana: beautifully conceived, well-managed, laid-back ambiance, good food; all rooms are airy and are fan-cooled: $40/person quad, $45/person tpl, $50/person dbl, all meals included; Manila tel. 721-2089.
» El Pinoy: very nice, eclectic collection of Filipiniana used to decorate the place; rooms are fan-cooled: $46/person tpl, $50/person dbl, $76/person sgl, all meals included.
» Aqua Venture: nice place, set up for divers, and frequently gets groups of Japanese divers; all rooms are airconditioned: $49/sgl-dbl, $60.50/tpl, $66/quad, credit cards accepted; Manila tel. 899-2831 (reservations closed on weekends).
» Aqua Tropical: one of the more up-market places, hospitable management and staff, aquasports include windsurfs and jet skiis; $75/person, meals included; Manila tel. 523-1842.
» Balai: one of the newest additions, good reports; all rooms fan-cooled: $65/person, includes all meals and dives w divemaster and banca, rates for non-divers available.
» Eagle Point: most up-scale, facilities include a good spa, small pool, and a variety of aqua sports; all room are airconditioned: $95/sgl-dbl, $175/suite, credit cards accepted; Manila tel. 813-3553.
» and many more—the above have safe dive operations and good service, there are also others (not all run recommendable dive operations and we advise that you do not join, or support those that run spear-fishing trips in marine sanctuaries).
 
Anilao Sunset
all photos © by Brier Projects Inc

(also check out Our Latest Trek)